Beyond The Beach: Your First Visit to Thailand

The first time I learned about Thailand (more than just its geographical location) was by watching the film The Beach around 2000 on a VHS tape in Poland. I remember it vaguely. However, the way the crystal blue waves were crashing onto the golden shore whilst a cult-smitten group of travellers swam in the water stuck with me. The sense of freedom on the isolated, breathtaking island looked addictive.

Not even a teenager yet, I obviously was not able to grasp the full extent of the story (even though I thought I did, of course), and reading the book version as an adult later has granted me a different perspective on tourism and chasing the one-of-a-kind travel experience. For me, it is about finding a balance between the two: there is a reason why some places are popular and it is okay to want to visit them. It is also perfectly fine to take a break from ticking off your to-do list and just let yourself wander without an agenda.

As more and more people embark on a journey to find beautiful destinations, I thought I would share a simple introduction to Thailand that I think will be great for anyone visiting for the first time. Having spent the last three extended Christmas breaks in Thailand – now a wonderful tradition – I hope to give you a good insight into what you can expect.

I would start by prioritising these three locations: Krabi, Phuket, and Bangkok, and here is why...

KRABI

Krabi… where do I even start? It really is the ultimate paradise. I tend to consider this leg of the trip a treat and the perfect way to ease myself into the tropical climate. The centre in the main tourist hub is nice, with an easily accessible night market. However, there is another section of the city with a bazaar that offers, in my opinion, a wider variety and better food quality.

Around 30 minutes' drive away, there is a spectacular but quite challenging (mainly due to the high humidity and the heat) hike called Dragon's Crest. The view at the top – the islands rising from the mesmerisingly blue Andaman Sea surrounded by dense jungle – is definitely worth the discomfort of heavy sweating and tired legs.

Railay Beach is a mini mission to get to as you need to catch a boat from Krabi centre and walk a short distance to reach it, but it has a fantastic landscape although it can be very busy. The water is serene, still, and ideal for a swim. I love letting my body float in this part of the world as if this is where I am meant to exist. A sweet bottle of soju in hand helps to maximise this feeling.

Once, I went on a full-day boat excursion that consisted of visiting seven islands, snorkelling, and swimming in the sea with plankton. Despite the experience being massively delayed and disorganised (I waited over two hours before setting off because the company wanted to sell more tickets to make the trip worthwhile, and kept on moving our group to different pick-up spots), it was worth it. As a group, we were rather unlucky with the weather on that day as it was on-and-off rainy and cloudy, so it felt unusually cold (crazy, I know!). Some islands we just saw from the boat, while others we were able to disembark at and explore. The lunch was disappointing as they guaranteed there would be vegetarian options, but all I could eat was rice and salad – no substantial protein source. As always on a group tour, the time allocation felt slightly annoying: sometimes waiting around, and other times having to rush at various scenic spots. Snorkelling was brilliant; it was the first time I had done it, and it was amazing to see all the tiny fish. It felt like looking through a glass window into another world. It is hard to describe. Sailing on a boat is always fun and a great way to admire the natural beauty of the country and the dramatic rocks. These are magnificent as they peek from the deep blue, with never-ending waves breaking around them. Seeing the glowing plankton at night was enchanting; it did not feel real.

Of course, there are other day trips you can select to keep yourself busy during your stay in this area. Even though this escapade was not perfect, I am still glad I went. I got to see a lot of new things in a limited space of time, which would be difficult to do on my own, unless I had paid for a private tour, and that would have been unreasonably expensive.

Natural hot springs, in my opinion, are a national treasure in Thailand and the absolute best way to relax in the afternoon, especially after a gruelling hike. I do not think I went to a hot spring here that disappointed me. They are incredibly affordable. The water is pleasantly warm and clean. Most of the time, water temperature is displayed and regularly updated, so you can mentally prepare yourself before you dip your toes in. I found that I usually ended up having enjoyable conversations with fellow soakers as the atmosphere is communal and peaceful. And in some of them, there is even a designated spot to boil eggs and eat them. Genius.

PHUKET

Phuket is a stunning, unique island in the south of Thailand that is incredibly hard not to love if you are a fan of warm weather and gorgeous beaches. It is one of the most beautiful places on Earth, and it offers easy access to all the conveniences you have grown used to in the West, which can be a rare combination. The traffic can be a bit intense sometimes if you are travelling by car. Phuket might look small on the map, but there are many different beaches you can visit that all have their own vibe. My favourites are Surin and Bang Tao. It gets very hot, especially around midday, so take your time adjusting and remember to take breaks from the sun. The Old Town is fun to wander through with lots of chic bars and shops – a great place to feel more alive and social after a relaxing swim in the sea.

There are many excursion options in Phuket. I visited Freedom Beach, which was picturesque, but busy. To be honest, you really have to prepare yourself for the volume of people at most attractions in Thailand because otherwise, it will ruin your experience. When you arrive at the beach, the reality will not match the edited influencer photos, and you will have more than a few people in your shot, unless you go there at the crack of dawn (I have not tested this theory, but let me know if you do). The only way to access Freedom Beach was by boat, and the return ticket cost approximately £50 from what I can recall, which was rather expensive. The strip of beach was fairly short and crowded with loud boats that continued dropping off more tourists. The waves were unsettled, so swimming there did not feel great. Most people were intoxicated, crowding round the compact bar at the back with a large queue. I would have adored this place in my 20s, but in my mostly sober 30s, it was certainly not my preference.

The mountaintop viewpoint overlooking James Bond Island was truly epic. Once you are at the location, you will be picked up at the bottom of a hill by a jeep and will be driven for about five minutes to the top, where you can admire the islands and take pictures. It is a quick visit, but a pleasant one. I want to check out the canoeing tour to see the mountains up close next time.

BANGKOK

Bangkok is a vibrant and crowded city, connected by large skywalks and a robust train/metro system, making it extremely straightforward to explore. The heat and humidity can get a bit much as concrete and tall buildings radiate a hell-like breeze wherever you go at any time of the day, so try to prepare for it. How? Read my other blog for instructions: A Woman's Essential Packing List for Long-Term Travelling: Hot Countries Edition. Also, take advantage of the huge, air-conditioned shopping centres and stop by cute cafes to cool off. There are a few different park options to check out, where you can watch monitor lizards randomly walking along, minding their own business. The tropical plants with colourful flowers look amazing, and strolling around the shaded gardens will refresh you.

For me, Bangkok is an overwhelming slap to my senses, and I can only deal with it four days at a time. When I am there, I tend to escape to the malls and make the most of the shopping options by visiting the Big C or Makro supermarket to buy all the supplies I will definitely miss when I am back in Europe:

• I am a big fan of Thai Tea powder. I know it is not the healthiest option, but it just hits differently. Sometimes, I treat myself by dissolving it in hot water in the afternoon as a pick-me-up.
• Another favourite drink is pure ginger powder, which I am genuinely addicted to (I love the no-sugar version). There are many other powder drink options, and all are convenient when you are on the go.
• Pandan and Thai tea custard mixes are delicious toppings for pancakes on the weekend.
• I brought back a massive sweet soy sauce bottle as it is very hard to find in London.
• The Tiger Balm selection is out of this world. I even got myself heat patches.
• Hot weather is not exclusive to Thailand, so I always stock up on Snake Brand Prickly Heat sprays – a true lifesaver.
• Essential oils are exceptionally cheap and of good quality, so bring some back with you.
• I have to mention Hi-Chew sweets that my partner worships, with many flavours to choose from. If you know, you know.

These three cities are easy enough to travel between. You will most likely arrive in and depart from Bangkok as it has the most international flight options. You can catch a connecting flight to Krabi from Bangkok on the same day, which I thought worked really well on my first visit as you are introduced to one of the most iconic parts of the country straight away. Spend a week in Krabi and then take a taxi to Phuket. In Phuket, you can easily stay for a month or two, but if you are short on time, a week is a good amount to get a flavour of the island. Lastly, catch a flight back to Bangkok and give yourself at least three nights to explore the city.

You can rent a motorbike for a few days while you are staying in Krabi and Phuket, which is a handy and fun way to see as much as possible.

If you are thinking of renting a car in Thailand, I highly recommend it. You can rent a modern, brand-new car with ease and do a loop by going all the way down south starting in Bangkok → Chumphon (a natural halfway stop with a lovely beach) → Krabi → Phuket → Chumphon → Bangkok.

I have not used trains or coaches to travel around Thailand, but I have read that the transport is reliable, so maybe explore this option too if you want to prioritise rest after busy exploration days.

Overall, I would say that Thailand feels safe, and I would be okay travelling there on my own as a woman. Hua Hin, however, was a weird place with too many massage places on every corner and mainly inebriated foreign men accompanied by young-looking female companions. These pleasure streets are not uncommon in Thailand, but Hua Hin was pretty much a destination specifically designed for that one activity. I did find a stunning beach there, far away from the centre, so that was a relief.

Check the weather forecast before you book anything! If you end up in the monsoon season, you will not be able to do most activities as lots of places close for safety reasons. That includes visiting national parks, diving, and taking boat tours. Also, tanning on beaches will be impossible… Always research the forecast for each destination you want to visit, as Thailand is a big country, and different regions can experience more extreme conditions.

Generally, it can be challenging to find home-style food in these touristy hubs. You have the best chance in Bangkok to find good options and take advantage of the Michelin guide to help you find them. I suggest moving away from the main attractions and trying to discover places as you walk and watch where the locals eat. This might mean not always checking the reviews and simply going off the beaten track. Sometimes, you will see a random street stand with a tiny menu of one or two dishes, where someone is cooking noodles. Use your best judgement. If it looks clean, fresh, and busy – congratulations, you have found the place.

On that same topic, here are the foods I recommend you try on your adventure:

• Noodles: Pad Thai (classic dry egg noodle dish), Pad See Ew (thick, slurpy noodles with broccoli in simple seasoning).
• Stir-fries: Pad Kra Pao (your choice of protein mixed with basil), Stir-Fried Morning Glory (water spinach fried with garlic and soy sauce).
• Soups: Khao Soi (rich curry-flavoured noodle soup), Tom Yum (hot and sour), Tom Kha (coconutty and citrusy).
• Salad: Papaya salad (refreshing and spicy).
• Curries: Green Curry (the spiciest, herbal and lightly sweet due to coconut), Red Curry (medium spice, aromatic and savoury), Panang Curry (medium spice, salty-sweet and thick), Massaman Curry (low spice, nutty and a bit sweet).
• Rice dishes: Pineapple rice (deliciously sweetened by pineapple), Egg fried rice (simple, yet tasty).
• Desserts: Mango Sticky Rice, steamed rice cakes, fried bread with pandan or Thai tea custard, taro or plain doughnuts with caramel glaze and sesame, Bua Loy (mixed tapioca and various other toppings in sweet coconut milk), bananas stewed in hot coconut milk.

I mostly found that Thai people were happy to adjust the menu and adapt to my dietary needs. So, asking for no fish sauce or replacing protein would rarely be an issue, which made finding vegetarian options a little easier. Simply be clear and polite about what you order.

If you are not usually this adventurous with your spices, make sure to have a probiotic drink or yoghurt every day to help your gut. Maybe avoid getting iced drinks from random stands if you want to be on the safe side too.

Lastly, I should warn you about certain animals in Thailand – dogs and monkeys. They are not chill at all. Unlike the sleepy dogs at a beach in Goa, India, Thai dogs bark, and on some occasions, chase you. This is not something I witnessed in the cities I just recommended (though I did in Chumphon), but it can happen in more remote areas. I experienced numerous situations where a nervous dog would lose their cool and go off at me. Once, three dogs set off after me in Sukhothai. I thankfully escaped, and a moment later, when another dog started shouting at me, a helpful lady gestured at me to take off my hat. The dog instantly calmed down and even walked up to me apologetically to lick my knee, tail wagging. I wish this was the secret trick for all dogs in Thailand, but it only worked on this occasion. When it comes to monkeys, just keep your distance and avoid eye contact with them. Do not try to take cute pictures up close, and do not carry plastic bags, shiny things, or food with you. Put everything in your backpack so it is out of sight. Monkeys are clever, and I have watched them rob people of their lunch before.

Other places worth checking out in Thailand are: Sukhothai, Lampang, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Kanchanaburi, Chumphon, Phang Nga, and Surat Thani. I will write separate blog posts on these because this one is becoming quite long now.

Enjoy Thailand and have the best time. I hope you love it! 💚